Thought to come to Kiev visited me from the beginning "Evromaydana", but the final decision I made on the night of 22 on February 23, immediately after the Verkhovna Rada voted for the removal of Viktor Yanukovych as president.
Someone told me that I missed the fun for a journalist - collision "Evromaydana" with special forces fighting on the Maidan, and so on.
However, with this I do not really agree. Events last week covered journalists from around the world. And many of them have left Ukraine on the day following the overthrow of Yanukovych.
Sure, fighting for Independence - a crucial point in this whole story.
But no less interesting events, in my opinion, it is now unfolding. When the situation in Kiev more or less settled, here there are incredible in their complexity and intricacies of action that will form the internal politics of the country in the coming years.
I will be in Kiev on Friday to try and, primarily, to capture these moments to establish new rules of the game. And I want to try to understand why the situation in this country so dramatically changed in just two or three days? Why so long resisted Yanukovych "Evromaydanu", and then as quickly blown away and give up?
Answers to these questions I have not found, so first look at the city itself. Aside from Independence Square and the surrounding areas of the adjacent streets, it is quite impossible to understand that in Kiev just happened revolution, accompanied by bloody clashes.
City now living the same life as always.
Transport is working properly:
The streets are full of people:
The mood of many people of Kiev can be summarized like this frame:
Kyiv woman drinking coffee under a portrait of Tymoshenko
And just on the outskirts of the Independence begin to see signs that the city is something very unusual. This way out of the subway on Khreschatyk still closed barricade:
The most terrible fights - in the past, and some of their attributes have become museum pieces, against which people are photographed. As an example, this water jet from which the night of 18 February 19 doused "Evromaydan." The same truck tried to ram the demonstrators, but the past is not just fought back, but also set it on fire. Now he's on display right on Khreschatyk:
Today (ie February 24) on Independence atmosphere was more mournful than protest. Although there is still protest for that - "Evromaydan" waiting, for example, announcements of new elections to the Verkhovna Rada. But today there are more dead remembered:
Line the whole carpets of flowers and candles:
Many people ask me what are the self-defense fighters. How, in principle, and the whole "Evromaydan", it is actually a very diverse group of people. In it there are people completely different, sometimes opposing views. Just now there is a sense of unity in the wake of the general hatred of the regime of Yanukovych. Then things finally ustakanitsya, and these people will once again, to put it mildly, not at all understand each other.
There are strange guys, concealing their faces (why?)
There are regular residents of Kyiv and other cities, who just want to maintain order in the city. Not necessarily that they were right all trudge to the west and hate Russia:
On the Independence today was not scary. No aggression at all. If not burned building of the House of Trade Unions in the background, then from many angles it would seem that this is a typical day in the life of the capital of Ukraine:
Even strange guys with covered faces any trouble do not deliver, and one of them, for example, told me how to get around the barricade to get to the entrance of the hotel "Ukraine".
Therefore, given the absence of any danger, today, many came with their children:
This same child from a different angle. Her mother looked very sad at one point all the time, until I walked around them:
Most people killed by the bullets of snipers on Instytutska - street adjacent to the eastern side of the Maidan. And the mourners go here, basically. On top of this street looks scary, of course:
Scary and some of the inscriptions:
Overall Maidan today looks like this:
Special heroism during clashes on Independence difference, of course, doctors. On the scariest video you'll see how they climbed into the inferno to pull the wounded. Volunteers from the health care services are easily recognizable by the same T-shirts:
On the ground floor of the hotel "Ukraine", which goes directly to the Maidan, formed a medical center, plus a while there acted temporary morgue for victims.
Morgue no more, and yet part of the medical center operates. But over the past three days was not new excesses, so doctors deserved rest:
And that doctors on duty at the Ukrainian House. On it, I have more to say later:
And then we stepped up to the most, in my opinion, an interesting topic, incomprehensible to those who are outside of Ukraine.
Many in Kyrgyzstan "Evromaydan" seems some monolithic mass, and for some reason this mass is represented by some of my fellow radical nationalist. This is not so.
The only thing that unites and integrates "Evromaydan" as I wrote above - this hatred of the regime of Yanukovych.All more common denominators not.
Demonstrators wide range of views to almost infinity. That, in my opinion, well, in terms of checks and balances.
It is important to understand all that "evromaydanovets" - does not mean "nationalist". I mean, most nationalists of various degrees of radicalism there right there, but not the fact that they even make up a third of the protesters.
(And I, for my Asian phenotype, nobody touched at all, even the most wrapped in a mask.)
So, for example, when the Verkhovna Rada yesterday deprived Russian status of "regional" language, not all in "Evromaydane" is supported. And certainly not all Kiev for this cancellation. Even those who hate Yanukovych and Russian authorities do not like.
(Although it is worth noting that the Russian retained the status of the "language of interethnic communication", and certainly there can be no total ban on Russian, as sometimes reported in the media.)
Moreover, at the Independence hangs Russian tricolor flags among others:
I was too far away from this tent, to find out why there - far from the stage and - hang the flag. But I'll come back and find out. Maybe it's supporters "Evromaydana" from Russia brought or donated - I do not know. But the fact is that anyone and would not come clean it.
Buildings occupied by protesters
And another phenomenon, which seems to be something fantastic Kyrgyzstan - is the ability of protesters to occupy the building state institutions and leave it whole, intact and clean.
In Kiev, really a lot of buildings of state institutions, which are now under the control of groups of demonstrators.Inside the two of them I visited today.
Here's what a "severe invaders" (the irony), the Ministry of Education:
Minobraza building was now under the temporary management of the Student Coordinating Council and a number of student organizations.
At the entrance to the Ministry of Self-Defense costs (in this case, very young children, among them the boys and girls). Inside you can get only on presentation of a student card.
Students occupied the building for several reasons: 1) to the new authorities have not appointed protege along party lines, and 2) to achieve the adoption of laws on higher education reform that under Yanukovych has not accepted, and 3) that the building is not looted / not burned / not destroyed.
It turns out that in many ways they are now even more opposed to the new authorities, because the old authorities in Kiev as it already and do not care.
And when a rumor today that the portfolio of the Minister of Education will receive a candidate from one of the parties came to power, the student organization immediately took up the discussion of their candidates because bidder from the new government did not accept them.
Actually, this discussion I attended.
The idea of students that the Minister of Education should not be a politician, not a representative of the "victory" party, and professional in their field. So they put forward several candidates Rectors of universities.
The discussion was lively, but very peaceful.
Students took only auditorium of the Ministry:
Well, the food is cooked in the corridor:
And the rest of the building - this savagery seems many Kyrgyz! - They do not touch. Moreover, every (!) They sealed cabinet seal, which in any case can not pluck:
And on the toilet door hanging inscription like this ("no smiti" means "do not litter"):
Students, of course, will not always manage this building, they will return it as soon as will be appointed Minister of Education.
Another building occupied "Evromaydanom" in which I visited - it's Ukrainian House, exhibition center near the Maidan.
This building - a place where protesters could stay warm, eat, receive medical and psychological care, and do absolutely marvelous things. For example, paint your helmet:
Or ... read a book in the library!
Generally, a library for the protesters - is a fantastic phenomenon that shocked me, perhaps the most today.
What I found - this, of course, only a small part of what is happening in Kiev. I do not pretend that I understood correctly, but I tried as accurately convey what their eyes beheld.
Special thanks to friends Kiev Costa and Ira, who helped me navigate today and carried on some of the sites.
I really want to find opponents' Evromaydana "but something in Kiev it is difficult, they are a bit here. If someone knows contacts - let me know, I'd love to take and interview them.
Although, of course, in Donetsk and Kharkov even "antimaydanovtsev" a lot, but, alas, time to go there I will not be.Do not forget that Ukraine - still quite a large area country.
Continue to take questions from readers in this thread on my "Facebook are" . Hopefully, by the way, that this stuff I'm on some of them answered. Definitely, all of your questions, I can not find answers - too few days I have in Kiev.